Excurfion from Pont y Pool to Crumlin Bridge and Rifca. Junction of the Great 
and Little Ebwy. Valley of the Ebwy. Newbridge. Abercarn. Rifca.Excurfion from 
Rifca to Penllwyn. Bydwellty. Crofs Pen Main.

 
The Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal

1. William Coxe travels southwards from Crumlin along the newly constructed canal
(1799)towards Risca. [Ebwy = Ebbw]

"From Crumlin bridge, I continued along the fide of the canal to Rifca, and was 
as much pleafed with the fingularity of the views in this route, as I was 
affected with the romantic fcenery in the fequeftered vale I had juft quitted. 
The road over which I paffed is the towing path, carried along a narrow ridge on 
the edge of the canal, and at the top of an elevated embankment. On the left, 
the canal winds at the foot of overhanging rocks, fringed with wood; below the 
Ebwy is feen from the elevation of forty or fifty feet, here pent up in a narrow 
gulph, there fpreading its devaftations in a wider channel: the contraft between 
the tranquil waters of the canal, and the rapid eddies of the torrent, burfting 
through groves of alder and foaming over fragments of rock, is peculiarly 
ftriking." 

2.Description of early coal mining at Mynyddislwyn (Mynyddyslwyn) and the 
tansportation of coal via tramroads and the canal.

"At Newbridge, fo called from a bridge which croffes the Ebwy, large quantities 
of coal are brought down a rail road, from the mines of Mynydd Yflwyn, and 
conveyed by the canal to Newport. Between Newbridge and Rifca, numerous houfes, 
mills, forges, and hamlets are fcattered on the fide of the canal, and on the 
banks of the Ebwy, and the whole valley becomes a fcene of buftle and activity."
 
3. William Coxe travells  southwards from Newbridge and describes the Cwms 
ie Cwm Hafod fach, Cwm Gwyddon, Cwm Gofapi, Cwm Carn which are situated on eastern
side of the Ebbw Valley. 

"I paffed on the left not lefs than four of thofe wooded glens which are frequent 
in thefe parts; they are called Cwms by the natives, and give a pleafing 
diverfity to the uniform range of hills; rapid torrents rufh down their hollows, 
and after fupplying the canal, pour their fuperfluous waters into the Ebwy; one 
of thefe, called Carn, which defcends from Mynydd Maen, gives the name of 
Abercarn to the place where the principal iron works are fituated. On the right 
the mountains are lefs broken with dingles; their lower parts are covered with 
underwood. and their heathy tops overhang and darken the torrent."
 

Looking north along the Ebbw Valley towards Cwm Carn

4. William Coxe descends from the canal and describes Waunfawr (large meadow or
field) which reaches its greatest width at (what is now known as) Crosskeys.

"About two miles from Abercarn defcending from the canal, I entered the ftony 
road leading through the vale, which here expands to the breadth of half a mile, 
and is rich in wood, pafture, and corn."
 
5. William Coxe continues his journey towards Risca and describes the early mines
which were located to the west of the River Ebbw in the Parish of Machen. Here
Coxe describes in great detail the tramroads which traversed the Valley
at a point midway between Crosskeys and Risca so that coal could be transported
across the valley to the canal and then by barge to Newport.

"In my way to Rifca, I croffed a bridge over a rail road, lately formed by Mr. 
Edward Jones, who rents under Mr. Morgan of Ruperra fome mines of lead, 
calamine, and coal, in Machen Hill, on the oppofite fide of the Ebwy. The 
expedition and fecurity with which the cars are conveyed up and down the fteep 
fide of the precipice, appear fingular to a fpectator on the bridge. Two 
parallel rail roads are carried from the canal to the oppofite fide of the Ebwy 
along which two cars are drawn up and let down at the fame time, by means of an 
engine; they appear to pafs each other alternately, like buckets in a well; a 
boy defcends with the empty car, nearly midway, and after adjufting the 
machinery is again drawn up with the loaded car, which empties the coals into 
the boats of the canal".

 
The River Ebbw near Mynnyd Machen

6. William Coxe continues to follow the River Ebbw and breaks his journey
at a public house in Risca and then proceeds to Caerau in Newport.
 Here Coxe mentions Twmbarlwm by its earlier name ie Twyn Barlwm

"Following the courfe of the Ebwy at a little diftance from its banks, where it 
lofes itfelf in an abyfs of trees, and flows under the fteep fides of Machen Hill,
 heard but not feen, I reached Rifca, a village fituated at the 
extremity of the vale, and under the precipitous crags of Twyn Barlwm. Having 
taken fome refrefhment at a public houfe and difmiffed the guide, I continued my 
journey to Caerau, where I did not arrive till late in the evening."
 

Location of Pont y Cymmer in Crosskeys

7.William Coxe leaves Caerau the next day and travels north through Risca to 
the confluence of the River Ebbw and River Sirhowy (Crosskeys) and crosses the 
River Ebbw at Pont y Cymmer . Coxe now  continues his journey along an elevated
ridge on on the eastern side of the Sirhowy Valley (in a similar manner to that
of the A4048 road) passes under Caerllwyn (Parish of Mynyddislwyn) and enjoys
a pleasing view of the Sirhowy Valley from the Penllwyn at Pontllanfraith. 
[Sorwy = Sirhowy]

"Anxious to complete my tour in the mountains, I quitted Caerau early next 
morning, in company with Mr. Evans, and returned to Rifca. Having breakfafted, 
we mounted our horfes, rode along the vale, and croffed the Ebwy near the influx 
of the Sorwy, over Pont y Cymmer where I obferved recent traces of the terrible 
ravages occafioned by the inundation of the torrent. Soon afterwards we afcended 
the fide of the hill, which bounds the vale, and continued along an elevated 
ridge, through thickets, corn fields, and meadows, fprinkled with hamlets, 
watered by numerous torrents, and overlooking the Sorwy. The features of this 
vale are more wild and romantic than thofe of the Ebwy; it is narrower and 
deeper; and the fhelving declivities, laid out in meadows, ftretch to the edge 
of the torrent, which roars in a profound abyfs, obfcured by overhanging trees. 
We paffed under Caerllwyn, or the high place of the encampment, defcended to the 
banks of the Sorwy, croffed over a ftone bridge, and went up a fteep road, 
leading to Penllwyn, where we enjoyed a pleafing view of the vale, which feemed 
to ftretch in a femicircular direction."
 

 
 Overlooking the River Sirhowy 

8. William Coxe describes the diet of the local farmhouse and the diet among the
local labourers and explains his preference for the local ale (cwrw)instead
of his usual Saxon beer ! He also points out that the life of the local
peasant in Monmouthshire was much better than in other parts of the country
at this time .

"In vifiting the farm houfes, as well in the hilly diftricts as in other parts of 
Monmouthfhire, I was ftruck with the enormous quantity of bacon with which they 
are ftored, frequently obferving feveral ranges of tlitches, fufpended from the 
cieling of the kitchen. Bacon is almoft the only meat ferved at the tables of 
the farmers, and with vegetables and the productions of the dairy, forms their 
diet. Thin oat cakes are a common fubftitute for bread, and the repasts are 
enlivened by the cwrw their national liquor, which the claffic writers have 
dignified with the name of cerevitia, and which is immortalized in the fongs of 
the bards; to defcend to common language, it is new ale in a turbid ftate, 
before it is clarified by fermentation. To perfons accuftomed to clear and old 
malt liquor this beverage is extremely forbidding to the fight, and naufeous to 
the tafte; but I had fo much of the blood of the ancient Britons in my veins, 
that I foon became accuftomed to t'heir cwrw, and preferred it to our Saxon 
beer."

"The principal articles of diet among the labourers are oat cakes, potatoes, 
milk, and cheefe, with an inferior fpecies of cwrw. Almoft every cottage is 
provided with a fmall garden, and the greater part are even enabled to keep a 
cow, which ranges the commons for fubfiftence. The comforts of the cottager are 
increafed by the abundance of fuel, either of coal or wood, which prevails in 
every part of the country; and the price of labour being the fame as in moft of 
the counties of England, with thefe additional comforts, the condition of the 
peafantry in Monmouthfhire is very advantageous."

 
Looking towards Hafod Tudor Cottage 

9. William Coxe describes the common practise of whitewashing houses - its
benefit to the health of the inhabitants and the picturesque effect on the 
landscape.

"It is impoffible to travel in Monmouthfhire without being ftruck with the 
appearance of neatnefs and cheerfulnefs, which refults from the cuftom of 
whitewafhing the houfes; on account of the abundance of lime, this operation is 
annually performed, both within and without, and greatly contributes to the 
health of the inhabitants. The white colour of thefe dwellings, fcattered along 
the fummits and fides of the hills, and furrounded with foliage of different 
hues, confiderably heightens the picturefque effect of the diverfified 
landfcapes."